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Destination: Cava Tapas and Wine Bar (TV Diner: Portsmouth, NH) - It's officially the newest restaurant in Portsmouth, NH, and Cava Tapas and Wine Bar has already earned the coveted TV Diner Platinum Plate!
This time, Billy takes us in for a closer look at their exquisite dining space, and catches up with friends and owners, John Akar and Greg Sessler.
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Dining Out: Cava Tapas and Wine Bar
Creative, visually lovely dishes at Cava Tapas
By Rachel Forrest
December 26, 2008 6:00 AM
There are a few chefs in town who I would just love to spend a couple of days learning from, or just watching cook. That's why I take cooking classes from big-time talented chefs or sit at the chef's table in a restaurant — so I can see how it's all done — the art, craft, excitement.
Chef Gregg Sessler, chef/owner at the new Cava Tapas and Wine Bar is on my list of chefs who could teach any of us a thing or two about how to create dishes that delight in all ways possible. Just perch at the little four seat bar space in front of the open kitchen and you'll see some smart, creative and visually lovely culinary moves, the result fantastic from sweet roasted Medjool dates stuffed with sharp Manchego cheese and wrapped in salty crisp ham to the creamy butternut squash soup poured tableside over puffy white marshmallows and a swash of dark rich chocolate.
Disclosure — there was none of my preferred anonymity in my visits to Cava. Co-owner John Akar knew who I was from the start, Danny, who used to make my caipirhina cocktail at Brazo is there too so he knows me, but I don't think it matters. I observed the same gracious and enthusiastic care to everyone in the small restaurant. There's a hip vibe here, heavy on the bar seating both in the upstairs and downstairs dining areas — upstairs has good street people watching, downstairs is like a cave with rough stone and glowing lights. In the warm weather there will be outside patio dining in the funky little alley off of Market Street. Just like an out of the way village in Spain.
The tapas is more than just about Spain. The dishes follow the small plate concept but in origin there are dishes from Akar's Lebanese roots, a touch of the Middle East merged with familiar Spanish flavors from chorizo, Serrano ham, saffron and piquillo peppers. We tried the Mezze on one visit, a platter of bright fresh ingredients in creamy garlicky hummus, vibrant tabbouleh with parsley and tangy lemon, a tart, earthy marinated feta and more ($16). It's enough for a light meal with your wine. On another visit, four of us sat at that chef's table where Chef Sessler welcomes interaction. I imagined lots of "What are you doing now? What did you just do there?" I think I did it myself, but that's what he's opened himself up for and to talk to him about the food gave me a real appreciation for his studious approach to the cuisine. He thinks about this craft and it all fits. And since he's worked in some of the more avant-garde kitchens — Alinea for one — we get some whimsy as well.
Enough analysis. Wait, first a note on prices. It's tapas, so plates are small and not all that pricey individually, but that doesn't necessarily add up to less expensive overall in the end. I found myself over ordering because I just wanted to taste it all and my advice — now that I've been there a few times — is to restrain yourself and come back again to try more. The bill adds up quickly and if you cut back by a few dishes that you think you might want you'll avoid sticker shock and still get plenty to eat. I also found the wines, available by the "taste," half glass (3 oz.) and glass expensive as well. It's a very good list however, with bottles you won't find around here.
More on the food, finally. Order some bocadillos, two bites on a crispy crostini. Dark chocolate with sea salt and pistachio oil yields sweet and savory juxtapositions ($6) while the seared foie gras (from France, not the United States and the chef can tell you why it's better) is laid on top of a layer of sweet quince and made more exotic with a fragrant bergamot oil ($18). Round bullets of spicy chorizo are tender and juicy with slices of caramelized apple and an intense cider reduction ($8). Six rectangular chickpea fries are like a nutty polenta crisp outside, steaming hot and light inside with a smoky paprika aioli to swipe them through ($6).
Move on to the small plates section with more substantial fare in large prawns sautéed in butter and served with three garlic preparations — a crisp chip, a sharp sauce and some foam, a nod to out of the box techniques ($10). Three huge scallops are also fried in butter, creating a crunchy crust and are served with a thick hunk of tender pork belly with just enough lip coating fat under that required layer of crispness. The coating hints of Asian flavors, five-spice perhaps, and the sauce of sunchoke puree compliments both ($12). That and another vegetable plate could be a meal.
We went on to more small plates with meats, sliced spring lamb from Oregon served with lemony garbanzo beans and astringent hummus, which went well with the rich lamb. No foam here, Chef Sessler created some "air" out of olive, lighter than foam and with the essence of the Mediterranean in air and a smooth Greek yogurt as well ($15). Do not miss the paella de cava, made to order, rice sautéed and simmered in the proper paella pan with heady saffron, chorizo and simple chicken, peas and piquillo peppers ($14). It's a good dish for just one, or divided for tastes.
There are just four selections in sweets and cheeses so our group of four ordered them all. The chef's wife, Kristin, invented some fluffy churros, deep fried and coated with sugar to dip in a bowl of hot chocolate. If you finish your churros and there's chocolate left over, get a shot of Chambord in it ($8). The flan is outstanding — the perfect texture and mix of custard and caramel and served with candied peanuts ($8).
Cava also brings the cheese course to a new level. Two goat cheeses, one blue, one more delicate and simple come on a plate with fresh honey comb and soft brioche with a kumquat marmalade ($10). Finally, the marscarpone plate is dessert and cheese, the smooth cheese like a sweet mousse, served with intense Valencia oranges and filaments of candied fennel ($8).
Sweet with salty, soft with crisp, air against hearty meat, swashes of dark brown chocolate painted on bright white bowls, thin threads of flavor mingled with smoky cream — exotic and delightful artistry in concept and flavor have come to us in the form of Cava.
Rachel Forrest is a former restaurant owner who lives in Exeter. Her column appears Wednesdays in Go&Do. Her restaurant review column, Dining Out, appears Thursdays in Spotlight magazine. Hear her on Wine Me Dine Me on alternate Wednesdays on WSCA-FM 106.1. She can be reached by e-mail at rforrest@seacoastonline.com.
Dining Out: Cava Tapas and Wine Bar
Cava Tapas and Wine Bar, 10 Commercial Alley, Portsmouth, 319-1575, www.cavatapasandwinebar.com
Hours: Afternoon tapas, 3:30-5:30 p.m.; dinner nightly from 5:30 p.m.
Food **** and a half. Chef Gregg Sessler is now on my list as one of the most talented chefs in town with smart, creative cuisine that challenges and comforts at the same time.
Service **** Gracious hospitality and infectious enthusiasm.
Ambience. **** Hip little spot with plenty of opportunities for sharing food and conversation. When that patio opens, it'll be even better.
Overall. **** and a half. Creative, delightful cuisine served with charming hospitality in a fun, vibrant setting.
Five stars - Excellent
Four stars - Very Good
Three stars - Good
Two stars - Fair
One star - Poor
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View Our Segment Here!
Review: Cava, Tapas and Wine Bar
(TV Diner) - Brand new to a beautifully bricked commercial alley in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, the Cava, Tapas and Wine Bar had two cozy levels of three bars with tables scattered in nooks and crannies with one bar overlooking the busy open kitchen.
The menu featured delightful wines and ethnically assorted tapas and small plates in modern and traditional fare.
We opened with the traditional Mezze, a mosaic of marinated feta, black olive medley, hummus, tabbouleh, salsa, and Baba Ganoujh delicate with eggplant-all accompanied by toasted pita---and each outstanding.
The recommended Royal Medjoul Dates with Manchego cheese were wrapped in a paper thin slice of crisp ham that curled around the dates.
They were incredible.
Poured at our table, the Roasted Butternut Squash Soup over crumbled cacao pieces and spiced marshmallows---all next to a streak of chocolate----was dazzling in taste and fun!Paella de Cava with Chicken and Chorizo lingered on the palate with a gentle heat and the essence of saffron.
It was satisfaction supreme. Resting on sauteed chanterelle mushrooms, tender slices of Grilled Beef Sirloin capitalized on flavors of chive and citrus. Absolutely wonderful!
The streak of choc appeared again with the Churros.
Served warm with a pot of also warmed silky chocolate, the distinct taste of cinnamon lasted through even all the dunking!
Deep golden caramel sauce pooled over the smooth rich Flan with Candied Peanuts imparting sweet and salty notes to make a simple classic a luscious confection.
The service was outstanding. Prices were varied and great for quantity and quality with tapas four to seventeen dollars, small plates ten to fifteen dollars and desserts five or six dollars.
Eating at the Cava, Tapas and Wine Bar is a comfortable international culinary adventure for all budgets and it well deserves Platinum Plate.
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Cava offers tapas and lots of wine in Portsmouth
Restaurant lands in Port City
By TOBY HATCHETT
business@seacoastonline.com
December 05, 2008 6:00 AM
PORTSMOUTH — Cava, the tapas bar and restaurant, opened last week in downtown Portsmouth. Word of mouth on the new establishment is spreading fast.
Cava is the name of a Spanish sparkling wine. Cava also means "cave" in Spanish. But when you go to Portsmouth's Cava think Spain, Portugal, Lebanon, northern Africa, southern Italy and so on.
The owners, John Akar and Gregg Sessler, were best chums way back in high school in Exeter.
Sessler's fiancee, Kristin Lane, is the pastry chef. Lane found the listing for the property on Craigslist. At the time, Akar was bartending at Agave, another Portsmouth restaurant, and Sessler was still in San Francisco.
"The mezze plate is all of my father's recipes," said Akar. "He's Abdallah Akar and from Lebanon. You can't get more authentic than this, and already it's one of our most popular items on the menu.
"It was always our dream to open a restaurant in Portsmouth," said Akar. "The timing was just perfect for us to make it happen now."
Akar and Sessler began working in restaurants when they were 16. Sessler attended Paul Smith Culinary School near Lake Placid, N.Y., then went on to work and own a restaurant in San Francisco. Akar got his business degree at the University of New Hampshire.
Now, the two are united in their new and first venture as a team.
"We thought about this for a long time," said Sessler. "The aim was great food at a nice price point. You can come sample tapas in the afternoon for $1 and $2, and taste some great wines."
Cava serves its fine selection of wine in three sizes, tasting, half glass and full glass.
"This is really catching on," said Akar. "People just like it. Last week a couple lined up 10 tastes and made notes."
Even the specialty drink list bears the names of those involved with the restaurant — from Akar's signature marguerite to a drink invented by their contractor, and one by Bridget Sullivan, girlfriend of Akar and a bartender and manager.
Four can sit at the chef's table at the cooking station. Customers can watch Sessler and his staff prepare everything, from start to finish, as well as chat with the chefs.
There are 48 seats. In the spring, there will be 26 outdoor seats on the patio.
"We did the design ourselves, with help from friends, of course," said Akar. "I think we're the first restaurant in Portsmouth to have floor glass. We're also very proud of our downstairs bar and seating area."
Both Akar and Sessler stress their goal for Cava was to make it a comfortable, inviting environment where people know each other. The menu — which features small plates, medium plates and small bites — is large and varied, changing frequently.
Akar said the wine list will change every two to three weeks, so wine patrons can keep on coming in to sample and drink new wines.
"This is a very big wine town," said Akar. "It supports three very fine wine stores, and this is great for us.
"One of the reasons we wanted to be here is that Portsmouth is such a vital restaurant town," he said.
Sessler loves the idea of serving tapas. He said the variety available in this type of cuisine is immense. It can be whatever you imagine based on the availability of ingredients, from local to those from the Mediterranean region.
"We've spent so much time on the Seacoast," said Akar, who has been a bartender at the Oar House and other restaurants. "Our clientele already know us, and they are helping to spread the word."
Sessler, who spent the last five years in San Francisco, said he is thrilled with the level of sophistication he is finding now in Portsmouth.
"The time just couldn't be better for us to open Cava," said Sessler. "I know people say the economy is bad and it is, but it's not bad for our restaurant, and we believe it will work and be a success.
"I think we fill a gap in some of the cuisine offered," said Sessler. "There's room for lots of good restaurants in Portsmouth. We're thrilled to be here now."
AT A GLANCE
Cava
Owners: John Akar and Gregg Sessler
Location: 10 Commercial Alley, Portsmouth
Phone: 319-1575 Hours: Open 7 days a week - 3:30-5:30 p.m., afternoon tapas; 5:30-9 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; 5:30-10 p.m., Friday and Saturday
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Cava brings wine, tapas to Port City
By CHARLES McMAHON
cmcmahonfosters.com
cmcmahon@fosters.com
Article Date: Wednesday, November 19, 2008
PORTSMOUTH — From Blue Hawks to business owners, two local men have joined forces to bring the Port City its first wine and tapas bar, Cava, located on Commercial Alley.
John Akar and Gregg Sessler, former Exeter High School graduates, always knew they wanted to start a restaurant together. Starting out as teenagers working at the Beach House Restaurant in Hampton Beach, the duo have had their hand in the hospitality business for quite some time.
"We always had the dream of opening up a restaurant," Akar said.
Following high school, the two went their separate ways and after years of doing their own thing, teamed up to bring a bit of Mediterranean flavor to local patrons. Sessler worked on the West Coast as the executive chef at the Caprice Restaurant in San Francisco, while Akar worked in management for Agave Mexican Bistro in Newburyport, Mass.
A chance find on craigslist for the property located on Commercial Alley sparked the two to bring the West Coast appeal of tapas to the East Coast.
Akar considers Cava one of the first actual wine bars in the city and said while most restaurants only offer wine by the glass, his business will offer it by the taste, half glass and full glass.
Cava will also specialize in high-end martinis, he said, and will continue to constantly recreate the wine list.
"It will be constantly changing and evolving," Akar said.
The concept of tapas is all about small portions capable of being shared by patrons, he added. The food menu will have a Mediterranean feel, mixed with some Lebanese, Greek, Turkish and Spanish flavor.
"You can go light or you can have a full meal," he added.
Saturday's grand opening went off without a hitch, said Akar. Customers turned out in force, sparking an hour wait for a table.
"The place was packed," he said. "People really loved the downstairs bar area because it's not only just a great place to hang out and have a glass of wine, but it provides a city feel."
The business will also offer a special toothpick menu from 3:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m., where diners can choose from color coded appetizers for an affordable price.
The majority of the food is homemade and is made right in front of customers lucky enough to score a seat at the chef's table, said Sessler.
Akar plans on heading up the back of the house business, while Sessler will busy himself preparing the many dishes.
The establishment is capable of seating nearly 50 patrons and in the warm season will open up the outside seating area.
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Restaurant Stalker
Submitted by Rachel Forrest on Wed, 11/19/2008
I spent five days peering into the big windows at Cava, the new tapas restaurant on Commercial Alley in Portsmouth, before I went in. I used to stalk over at Four, looking in to see who was dining there but whenever a new restaurant comes in, well, the grass is always greener. No review yet of course--it's waaay too early--but so far so good! Danny the bartender migrated from Brazo to make my Caipirhna (national drink of Brazil) and there's a good wine list with bottles I've not seen before. You can order a taste, a half glass or a full glass to have with your little bites or more substantial plates. Great manchego cheese and ham on smoky toasted bread, crab croquettes with... a sauce like a Greek avgolomeno with lemon and butter, chick peas with crumbled chorizo and spinach, mussels nice and hot, squash soup with dark chocolate and marshmallows (sounds odd, tastes great) and an oh so creamy flan with peanuts...only 38 or so seats including bar seating (which is where the cool folk sit apparently). Check it out!
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